Sew-Along: Lined Pencil Skirt

Updated: Feb 16, 2020


Lining a Skirt

I recently came across a construction method that i thought could be quite manageable. But be forewarn, it’s still not meant for the faint-hearted, and i do highly recommend making a simplified version i.e. no lining, if you are new to making skirts.


Face Fabric

Lining Fabric

Firstly, you want to give the extra seam allowances to your face and lining fabrics as shown above.


Lining Skirt

We will deal with the right side of the skirt first. Sew a safety stitch around the corners as shown. The corner is where the vent starts.


Hem of Lining

Press a double turn hem for the lining (1cm width) and topstitch it halfway (i.e. not all the way to the side seam).


Right vent

With the right sides facing and the edges of the extensions aligned, stitch the face fabric and lining together using a 1.5cm seam allowance.


Stitched right vent

Pressed Right Vent

Press the face fabric at the extension such that the lining lines up exactly as the face fabric at the side seam as shown above.


Hem right skirt

Turn up the hem for the face fabric and we can choose to stitch down or secure by hand.


Left Vent

Now, we will construct something similar for the left side of the skirt (see above image). Again, we would do a double turn hem for the lining (1cm width) and topstitch it down halfway.


IMG_6818

Align Left Vent

With right sides facing, align the edges of the vent and stitch from the start of the vent to the end of the lining hem.


IMG_6822

Press the face fabric at the extension such that the lining lines up with the face fabric at the side seam as shown above. You can see that the lining will not stay flat. This is ok, we will be treating that shortly.


Hem left skirt

Turn up the skirt hem and secure.


Cutting Diagonal left vent

Ok, so remember the lining will not sit flat? Flip the lining for the left side of the skirt away from the face fabric (above image). Do a diagonal snip into the corner of the lining (below image).


Cut left vent lining

left skirt

Now the lining for the left side of the skirt can lie flat.


Cut right vent lining

Now we do a similar snap into the lining for the right side of the skirt. Flip the lining away from the face fabric (above image). Snip into the corner of the lining (see below image).


Cut right vent lining

Join lining

Now we can join the left and right linings from the end of the zipper to the start of the vent (see above).


Joined CB lining

Press the seam open.


Join CB face

Then we join the left and right face fabric from the end of the zipper to the start of the vent (see above).


Seamed CB face

Press the seam open. The crease will help us in inserting the concealed zipper later.


Cut vent face

Now we can do a snip into the corner for the face fabrics (see above)


Close up

Align the four layers properly. The right side of the skirt should tuck in nicely into the left side, forming a beautiful vent. Tuck all the seam allowances for the vent in between the face fabric and lining (see below).


close up

Sew across the seam allowances to secure them.


Aligning

Align the four layers properly to check that the vent lies flat.


Lining a Skirt

The skirt is now ready for the insertion of the concealed zipper. I’ve not gone into details of inserting the zipper in this post, but you can watch the process from my previous video post here.


zipper inserted

The zipper is inserted. Check that everything lines up and there is no pull along the Centre Back (CB).


Join lining to zipper

To join the lining to zipper tape, flip all the layers to one side and only flip out the seam allowance of the lining. In this case, i’m doing the right side lining first. Align the edge of the zipper tape to the seam allowance (1.5cm in my case) and stitch about 0.5cm away from the edge of the zipper tape.


seamed lining zipper right

right lining zipper seamed

Right lining has been attached to the zipper.


left lining zipper

Now we do the same for the left side lining.


seamed left lining zipper

Lining a Skirt

And the back of the skirt is done (okies, minus the waist darts).

For the remaining of the skirt, the sewing sequence is not too much complicated from an unlined skirt:

  1. Sew all waist darts

  2. Join front lining with back lining at the side seams. Press seams open.

  3. Join front and back face fabric at the side seams. Press seams open.

  4. Attach waistband to skirt.

  5. Finish the hemming for the lining.

  6. Finish the hemming for the face fabric.

  7. The skirt is complete!


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